I was able to get my pimp-hands on a ghetto-licious Playchoice 10 cabinet. It was empty, dirty, and had mo holes in the control panel than a $5 ho at a crackheads convention.
So I decided to pimp-MAME this muther out!!!
Yo, it gots chrome T-molding, and a 3" Trackball!!! It gots 2 joysticks and 6 buttons each fo puttin' da pimp-slap on all my Mortal Kombat bitchez...
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
Computer Monitor to Arcade Monitor Frame Transplant
Check it out. I took a Dell M992 computer monitor and transplanted it to a standard arcade monitor frame from an Electrohome GO7-CBO.
We start by decasing the Dell M992 computer monitor.
Once the yoke, wires, and chassis are exposed, it's a good idea to disconnect the grounds, degauss coil, V and H, and the remote PCB.
I went ahead and bolted the top tube ears. This will hold the monitor at the proper level for the next step, which is bolting the bottom ears using an adapter.
I found a flat piece of metal with holes the right distance apart.
Since the 19" computer monitor tube is a little smaller than the arcade monitor tube, we have to make adapters to mount the monitor "ears" onto the Electrohome GO7-CBO frame. I used a flat metal bracket with the holes about 3/4" apart for the bottom ears. For the top ears I used left-over coin door latches with holes drilled in them.
I had to push the chassis forward as far as I could, then zip tie it in place using convenient holes and tabs.
We start by decasing the Dell M992 computer monitor.
Once the yoke, wires, and chassis are exposed, it's a good idea to disconnect the grounds, degauss coil, V and H, and the remote PCB.
I went ahead and bolted the top tube ears. This will hold the monitor at the proper level for the next step, which is bolting the bottom ears using an adapter.
I found a flat piece of metal with holes the right distance apart.
Since the 19" computer monitor tube is a little smaller than the arcade monitor tube, we have to make adapters to mount the monitor "ears" onto the Electrohome GO7-CBO frame. I used a flat metal bracket with the holes about 3/4" apart for the bottom ears. For the top ears I used left-over coin door latches with holes drilled in them.
I had to push the chassis forward as far as I could, then zip tie it in place using convenient holes and tabs.
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